One of My Favorite Places...and People!

This weekend was just great. Dara got some backpacking equipment for Christmas, and spring break is when she was determined to try it all out. Well, spring break is here! Amid a questionable (if not threatening) weather forecast, we decided to take a chance and go for it. I am soooo glad we did.

We went to one of our favorite hiking spots—where incidentally Dara hiked when she was just three years old—the Shining Rock Wilderness area in the Blue Ridge Mountains of North Carolina.

So we packed our gear and loaded up the Wagoneer (our "family adventure mobile") and left on Friday. We got to the Blue Ridge Parkway, only to find that it was closed! Uh-oh. Back down the mountain we drove until we found a trailhead that would lead us to Black Balsam Knob and Flower Gap from the eastern base of Little Sam Knob. That means we had to walk several miles further than we had planned! As Dara said, it was totally worth it. The day was unseasonably warm and the hike up the old rail bed and up Flat Laurel Creek was beautiful. It took us between Sam Knob and Little Sam Knob (yes, I too wonder who Sam was). We ate lunch and were drawn to the rocky peak of Sam Knob (elevation 6,045 feet), so we decided to climb it, lightening our load by hiding our packs at the base before ascending.

Wow. Beautiful 360-degree mountain view. Perhaps one of the best I've seen. While gawking at the vista, we noticed the wind increasing and the temperature dropping. We descended, found our packs, and headed toward Black Balsam Knob. The trail was lonely (read: awesome!). We felt as if we owned it all! That's the way the mountains are supposed to be. I think the threatening weather reports had scared away all the spring breakers, and the closed parkway made access even more difficult. All good with me!!

We filled our water bottles and crested Black Balsam Knob as the wind was getting more gusty. We continued on to the northern slope where there is a great little flat grassy spot I found 25 years ago in the midst of a laurel and blueberry thicket. It's a perfect campsite. You can see the sunset, there is a great little fire ring, and the bushes form a wind shelter. I told Dara, this is exactly the same spot where we camped when she was three.

Memory flashback...that trip was also on spring break. Darla and I backpacked with all three kids and hiked up to Black Balsam Knob. Drew was eight and Duncan had just turned seven. It was an inexpensive vacation, and we were poor and adventuresome. Darla gave in to my enthusiasm to do the backpacking trip (she's a hiker, but not a backpacker or a camper). So we packed our big six-man tent from Wal-mart and gave the kids a load. Our greatest concern: little Dara. She had a little pink Dora The Explorer backpack that matched her hand-me-down pink coat, and she wanted to share the load. We filled it with her blanket and some stuffed animals. Would she make it? Were we cruel to try?

That was when I first learned about her trademark toughness and positive spirit. She NEVER complained. She just sang while we walked and had the time of her life! After setting up camp, Darla was stressing. It was unexpectedly cold. Snow was on the ground in places. Duncan and Dara's "Disney princess" sleeping bags weren't up for this. So we doubled them up for Duncan and Dara ended up sleeping with Daddy. I must say, one of the top 5 favorite memories of my life was that night. Dara snuggled next to me SO happy. She told me how much fun she was having and that she loved me. She and I held hands all night. We were warm and slept like two rocks. Unfortunately, Mamma didn't. In addition to the cold and wind, there were coyotes yelping and howling all night long.

Ok, returning to 2016. Our first night was uneventful. We set up the tent (oops! I only had 2 tent stakes!) and ate Jambalaya. After sleeping well, we ate hot oatmeal for breakfast, packed up and hiked over Tennant Mountain, through Ivestor Gap, over what we call "Hippy Mountain" and by "Redneck Tarp City" (our affectionate nickname given to a spot where the rednecks drive their 4x4 trucks and camp in August for blueberry season) and on to Flower Gap. We did make one wrong move when we took a short cut (or so we thought) and ended up on the side of a mountain in some of the thickest brush I've ever been in. We decided to sit under  a grove of fir trees and eat lunch to get out the map and think about how we would get out of the brambles. We finally made it to Flower Gap, set up camp, and went to fill up all our water bottles in the spring (a half of a mile further) and gather firewood. Upon our return, we discovered a Raven that had grabbed our freeze-dried meal, had torn open the bag and helped itself to some of the contents. That didn't stop us from eating what was left.

The evening was crisp, breezy and beautiful, and the fire was welcome. It was a perfect evening if there ever was one. This is why we go to all the trouble to backpack.

I made 8 additional stakes out of wood and found another one, and secured the tent and rainfly well. A boy scout troop we passed earlier in the day had told us rain was expected that night.

Never doubt a scout.

As SOON as we got in the tent, it began to rain. And the rain never stopped. All night long the weather got worse and worse. Monsoon rains and wind battered the tent all night. At 7AM the dripping started as my seams hadn't been sealed in quite a while. Dara's little sleeping pad got soaked, and so did her bag. She said she was warm, so I said that we should try to sleep out the storm (it's miserable to pack while it's raining). But she was going stir crazy. So we got up and packed around 9AM and hoisted our significantly heavier packs to our backs and started the long trip back—in the rain. Finally, the rain slowed then stopped, and the the haze finally cleared revealing Big Sam Knob!

Decisions, decisions. Should [we] stay or should [we] go now? We both decided to go...as in home. Virtually everything was soaked. Not cool (actually...quite cold!). Sleeping would now be a struggle. As we passed between the Sam Knobs, the visibility continued to improve, and by the time we saw the glorious Wagoneer, it was clearing pretty well with some occasional spots of sunshine.

The BIGGEST disappointment of the trip? The whole hike, Dara talked about eating at a restaurant called "Juke Box Junction" on our way home. It's a favorite of ours any time we hike in this area. You know how it goes: we were hungry, cold, and obsessing over what we were going to eat. I was dreaming of that big hamburger, crinkle fries, and a huge chocolate malt. Dara was talking about how their chocolate chip cookie dough milkshake was the best she'd ever had. We got there and were relieved to see cars in the parking lot (meaning, it's actually open on Sunday!). We excitedly went to the door and were met by a waitress who said, "I'm sorry, we're closed." What?!?! It was 42 minutes before the closing time that was on the door! I began to protest. Then it hit me...daylight savings time had begun early that very day. We were actually 18 minutes late. Doggonnit!

Dara was so heartbroken...and blamed me for wanting to sleep that couple of hours longer hoping for a break in the rain!!

Oh well, we ended up finding a pretty good burger joint in Waynesville. Have I said how much I love rednecks? Here's just another reason why: Dejected after missing Juke Box Junction, I told Dara, "If we can find one redneck or fat guy, he'll know where we can find a good burger joint." Within one mile, we spotted our redneck. I wish I could describe this guy, but I shall refrain. Upon hearing my accent, he dropped his guard (my legit country boy slang is handy at times) and told me we needed to turn around and go to Juke Box Junction! That's when he revealed his distinguished burger connoisseur credentials. I explained our predicament (without using words like "predicament") and he told us of another joint adding, "I'll tell ya, they gotta big 'ole burger 'bout 'dis big (making a circle with his hands bigger than the circumference of his head) and stacked way up high like 'is" (separating his hands vertically about a foot apart). Then he gave me complicated, detailed directions there. I asked him the name (I'm not sure he'd heard of Google maps). He said, "Ammons."

We went without hesitation and he was right. I had the "hamburger steak" bacon burger, which was about a half pound patty with all the trimmings. Dara got a burger, tater tots, and hot fudge cake that was to die for.


The sun was out. We walked around downtown Waynesville before heading home.

I love that girl. I'm so thankful to God for all my kids!

Quick Trip to Ozone Falls

Darla and I are rehearsing for the empty nest. It's kind of great, actually. We had a Saturday today without soccer, track, football, church or kids activities of any kind! Really crazy! So, Darla, the dogs (yep, we're becoming those people), and I took off to see a waterfall we've heard a lot about over the years, but haven't yet seen: the impressive, 110-foot Ozone Falls near Crab Orchard, TN. It was one of Tennessee's first State Natural Areas, and is one of the most famous. It's not an epic hike. In fact, you can see the falls through the trees from the car as you approach the tiny parking area on Hwy. 70. There are two trails, one upper loop that takes you to the top of the falls, and a lower trail that takes you to the bottom of the falls. Both are very short.

The upper trail is almost all on sandstone cap rock (the stone that has made Crab Orchard famous). Pretty cool, really. The appropriately named Fall Creek is small, even after some rain this weekend. All is quite typical until the water suddenly drops off the cliff in to a beautiful deep (today, at least) hole. The cliff is impressive and scary. There are no walls or rails or fence to keep people or dogs from free falling. Actually, this is how I like it. I've hiked in other states where man-made barriers mar the natural beauty. That's a thing I love about Tennessee—I'd like to think we figure people know not to get too close to a 100+ ft. cliff. I know, it's so hard to figure out! I will say, due to the closeness of this waterfall to the road, and the depth of the waterhole into which it falls (at least, today's depth anyway), I would be very surprised if local teenage daredevils don't frequent this spot (I know I would have—we jumped from similar-height cliffs that were much less accessible and much more dangerous). Interestingly, there were no warnings against jumping, swimming, or climbing on or around the falls! Man, I love Tennessee!*

The lower trail is not much of a trail at all. It begins unceremoniously paralleling the road. Then it turns to go down the rocky hillside and all bets are off. There are no trail marks to be seen until you're down at the bottom next to the creek! Basically, you make your own trail. Darla and I stayed pretty near the base of the cliff, which in places is a rock house with water dripping from the brow. I found out later that the caves (rock houses) in this cliff were once known as "gamblers den" for nefarious activities that you can probably figure out. I bet this place is really impressive after a few days of sub-freezing weather. Unfortunately, the temperature has been in the 30s and 40s for the last few days, so almost all signs of ice are gone for now.
We made it down to the bottom. It looks as if one can walk behind the falls to the other side of the beautiful, jade-blue landing pool. But it was pretty cold today and we didn't want to get wet. So we went down to the creek as it tumbles out of the pool. Huge boulders are everywhere. Warning: the rocks around the creek are shifty and SLICK. It is a minor miracle that neither of us took a fall! The best shots of the falls are from a big rock on the downstream side of the landing pool.

The beautiful jade-blue pool is actually very clear water.  This creek seems to be quite clean. be sure to click on the above picture to see it in some better detail. Of course, there's no comparison to seeing the real thing. Apparently part of the Jungle Book movie was filmed here. After taking a few pictures, we headed back up to the parking area. Darla was really cold. It was about 38 degrees, but the wind was blowing.

On the way home we stopped by Kingston to eat at Gloria Jean's Fine Southern Provisions at Ladd Landing. Pretty good eats—not cheap. On to home for NFL Playoffs. God, thank you for the good, lazy day with my best friend. It was a needed break before another busy week.

If you live in the Knoxville area, you MUST make this short trip to Ozone Falls. The quick way is to get off I-40 at Crab Orchard (exit 329), go right for a couple hundred yards and turn right again on Hwy 70. You'll see the signs and the parking area in about a mile on the right. For the scenic route, Go west on Kingston Pike in Knoxville and take the right fork at Dixie-Lee Junction (Hwy 70). Follow Hwy 70 (pay attention to signs) until you get there.  It is much more interesting than taking the interstate, and won't take that much longer.

*For the sake of the foolish and the lawyers who represent them, it is probably wise for me to write the following disclaimer: Please do not ever jump from high cliffs. 

Laurel-Snow Falls and Friends

Went on a little hike today with some of our favorite folks. The Zelem family is in the same season-of-life that we are, and with all the kids still home for the holidays, we finally got to get together to go do something fun.

This is EZ (my affectionate nickname for Evan Zelem) making rock climbing
look easy (pun intended) as he does most everything it seems.

We met to eat at a restaurant in Dayton, TN, and drove the short trip to Laurel-Snow Falls Pocket Wilderness.


Darla and I have done this hike before. It was a couple of summers ago. It began nice; families swimming in the creek, the path was wide, the sky was blue. We started in shorts and Chacos. Then the wind blew and the sky quickly grew black with clouds. Thunder. Pouring rain. Darla was all about trudging through, so we did. And what a reward! The falls are just awesome. We returned covered in mud and soaked to the bone.

Today's hike was different. Beautiful weather, albeit a little on the nippy side. We followed the trail to Laurel Falls which is rocky and muddy in places. It's an interesting hike with big rock formations, caves, and the remains of a coal mine and coke production from over a century ago. This has left "coked" coal cinders and pig iron remains lying around. There are also some great old stone walls and pylons. It seems there was a old water reservoir here and the old pipe remains prove it. There's even an old coke oven or mine entrance that you can walk in and see for yourself. All this historical stuff is great. Combined with the larger-than-your-house-sized boulders that are ubiquitous on this trail makes you feel at times you feel like you're in a scene in a Lord of the Rings movie. There's lots to see and do, and the first mile or so of the hike is very easy.


On down you must either cross a ravine with the creek (difficult on this day because of the amount of water) or take the mangled foot bridge that has been hit by a falling tree (probably not safe to cross, but we did anyway!).

After the bridge, the trail gets a little hard to follow. You can wind around all kinds of obstacles and there really aren't good trail markings. But with our faithful Beagle and trusty Labrador (actually, they were useless. It was Darla who kept us going in the right direction!) we were able to navigate through holes, up hills, and over boulders to stay on the trail.

Truly, this is a hike you should give yourself more time to enjoy. Our kids were constantly tempted to explore caves, streams, rocks, and spur trails. Everywhere you look there are opportunities for discovery. I only wish we would have had more daylight for exploring more–especially the higher overviews that we didn't have time for.



You know, every trail has this effect on me, but this one especially does: I can't help but ponder God's creative genius. From the many different types of features and formations to the plant variety to the way human activity (destruction? progress?) once abandoned is so quickly absorbed and even turned into something more beautiful! It's pretty amazing, really.


Then...the reward! And picture time!

 This waterfall is pretty impressive. Of course pictures never do things justice, but you can see Drew in the red on the left at the base of the cliff (little red speck about 1/3 up from the bottom of the picture) to get a feel for how huge it really is. What's not visible is the cascade that continues on down the stream bed. I bet it is pretty awesome after a week of sub-freezing weather. Note to self: come back later this winter.


Here's the compulsory family picture! I've got to say, I love these folks! Of course my family, but I'm speaking of the Zelems. This is a family that is humbly committed to Christ. For me they are the kind of people that remind me that there really are those who will do the right thing no matter what trials or setbacks come. I can't say enough good about them. I only wish we could spend more time together.

After the hike we were hungry again! The little place we went for lunch was good, but it wasn't filling. It's time for Cracker Barrel! That's a regular post-adventure place for the Sparks clan to eat, and all seemed to like the idea (after some discussion about going to Waffle House waned). Yes, Cracker Barrel had the huge fireplace blazing, and we got the big table right in front of it! Perfect!

Quick Trip to Stinging Fork Falls

When the kids are home, we want to spend as much time with them as we can. Hiking is a family favorite, and a little trail near Spring City called Stinging Fork is one of our favorites. We first go by Banjo's BBQ, a great great great little place! Everything we've had there is fantastic. The owner is a believer and does a great job.
Stinging Fork is a little creek that grows when there's been some rain. This is important because there is a cool waterfall at the bottom of the hike. Here are a couple of pictures.

 Here's the overlook. Of course the picture doesn't do it justice. There is a cliff face to the left across the ravine. Unfortunately, Dara couldn't join us today. She's slaving away at Chick-fil-A.

Click the above picture so you can see it larger. I'm telling you, I didn't modify this picture at all. The water is really this clear and blue. There are icicles along the trail when the weather's been cold. We love coming in the winter. There are hardly ever anyone else on the trail.

We are so blessed to live in East Tennessee where God's creative work is on such display. I am grateful for these folks with whom I can share it. A good day.

Quick Trip to Flower Gap

Dara had an idea. "Let's leave after church and go backpacking overnight for Labor Day." She called Drew who is always wanting an excuse to leave Georgia to get a dose of God's country (the mountains). So we packed our backpacks in the Wagoneer and left after church with the dogs for the Shining Rock Wilderness in North Carolina.
By the time we got there, the sun was near the horizon. Our goal was to make it to Flower Gap and set up camp before dark. If one is daring enough, one can attempt to navigate the extremely rough 4x4 trail (once a silver mine rail spur) to bypass Black Balsam Knob and Tennant Mountain.
Yep. You guessed it. We took the Wagoneer on the trail. The good news is it performed perfectly climbing rocks and forging creeks (worn street tires and all!). This is quite a feat. Even trail rigs struggle with parts of this two- or three-mile trail. Spotters are required frequently, and damage is likely. The trail is so narrow, there are only two or three spots where you can possibly turn around—in fact, the laurel, blueberry bushes, and other brush scrape both sides of the vehicle more often than not. Thankfully, the only damage that occurred was that I broke a weld that holds my tailpipe and muffler, and now it rattles (I need a new muffler anyway). That's it! If you knew what kind of obstacles we faced, you would not believe it would make it at all, let alone finish it unscathed! I'll probably not do that again!
There were some others who braved the 4x4 trail, true rednecks (I say with all affection) who were much more prepared, with their lifted old beater 4x4 Blazers, Jeeps, etc. who made it to Ivestor Gap where they set up Tarp City. There were a couple of vehicles that were a bit newer, and the sight of the fenders and rocker panels of those vehicles struck fear in my heart! They were scratched, dented, and beaten to death! It's a minor miracle I got out of there with only a bit of tailpipe damage. Thanks, Drew, for a great job spotting and plotting my route (and thank God for his grace)!

I must admit, it was fun.

We finally parked the Wag and started hiking. I should say we started "hoofing it" because we had to walk really fast in order to beat the sun which was quickly setting.
We got to Flower Gap on time...but there were three or four groups of college students that beat us there. Not cool. The secret of Flower Gap is no longer...well...secret. Like Max Patch and several other great places that I have gone to all my life and could count on being alone all day, the word is out. I will reserve comment on the college students we saw there, except to say that some were stocked up on pot, some had their music playing, and several left trash laying around. You can probably get the rest. Stinks. Literally. But I'm sounding like an old man.

The campsite in a hemlock grove. Sparky
is wiped out! Mo is still ready to go.

The fact that we were now not going to be camping at Flower Gap meant we needed to really hoof it to find another place in which we could set up camp. We ended up going to Shining Rock Gap, another mile or so past Flower Gap. Along the way we saw several other college students with their ENOs or tents set up. After much searching, with darkness closing in, Drew found a suitable place under some huge hemlock trees. There was a little slope so it really wasn't an optimum place to set up tents, but it was the best we could find, and it worked ok.

Sparky, Mo, & Drew while supper is being prepared.

It was actually cold that night! After eating a dinner of tuna pitas, Jambalaya, and sausage, we went to bed. Dara, Mo, and I in one tent; Sparky and Drew in the other. I slept like a rock.

A spider's web with morning dew-drops
over our tents.

The next morning we ate oatmeal, packed up and headed back toward the Wagoneer through Flower Gap. Awesome. We ate blueberries and hung out there with the college students (some of whom had organized themselves into a 6-person massage line to rub each other down. Just weird. I'll probably not go back there on a Labor Day weekend). I've been coming to this area for around 25 years and haven't ever seen this many people. Not even close. I've been here before and not seen a single person for days. The secret is out. I'm a little saddened about it—particularly about people who are not considerate of nature, laws, and other people. But I'm monologuing again. There were some great people we met on the trail, including some nice college students.

Blueberries were still abundant at Flower Gap. The elevation is approximately 5800 feet there. Nearby Black Balsam Knob is 6214 feet and there are even more blueberries there in places.

After hanging out at Flower Gap and getting our fill of blueberries, we headed back. Drew had to get back to Berry (College). It was a beautiful day. Awesome scenes all around as we walked.

This is Dara at Ivestor Gap. 

Drew reminded us that there was an apple tree on the side of the trail when we were hiking in, but in our haste to beat the fleeting daylight, we missed it somehow. We found it on the way out and the apples were great. I think I could survive on just the food the Appalachians provide for those who look! 

 At Ivestor Gap, we realized that the rednecks (I say with all respect) were firing up their 4x4s to head out together. I was hoping to be in front of them so that we could get out in time not to stress Drew, AND because I was a little afraid that something could happen to my Wag (and that's when you really need rednecks, who are usually quite willing to lend a helping hand). So we had to hoof it again and stayed with the Jeepers (not an easy task) until we got back to the trusty Wag. No worries, it started and we followed the rednecks out. I must say, the Wagoneer is an impressive vehicle. What else can you take downtown to a symphony concert, and take to the mountains four-wheeling and be right at home at both?! The rednecks were impressed, too! It seems everybody loves the Wagoneer.

Sidebar: You must understand, rednecks don't consider that label a pejorative! Especially when the one using it is a redneck (me, as my kids frequently remind me. But I'm the good kind! There are two kinds, you know! Maybe that'll be another post.)!

Scenes along the hike. Click on them to see them larger.

Wagoneers are beautiful anyway, but never so much as they are after an adventure! After loading up the Wag, we followed our new friends out (they really were! They honked and waved at us when we parted ways down the road!). 

After a beautiful ride down the mountain to the hamlet of Bethel, we ate at Jukebox Junction, our favorite sit-down burgers-and-shakes place! We've been coming to this restaurant since 1999.  

What a great, quick adventure with two fantastic people (who happen to be my kids). I'm so thankful. God was everywhere one might care to look—in the beauty of creation all around us, in the conversations on the trail, and even in the small good things (pets, food, ride, people we met) along the way—reminding me of his grace and goodness. It was exactly what I needed!