From Birtamod to Kathmandu

Last night Madison wanted to take us to eat at a restaurant across town owned by a guy who had stored a yak's head and horns for him while he was here as a missionary (don't ask). We walked a mile or so until a guy in an electric rickshaw offered to give us a ride for about $1.30. i don't think that little machine has the needed suspension for the 800 lbs. payload it was suddenly carrying. But we made it across town to the restaurant which prodly proclaimed on a large banner: "BEST TASTED NAM IN NEPAL." Madison's friend was there and was very happy to see him. He brought us out some dry-rubbed BBQ chicken, dal, and some truly great nam (that's fresh flatbread made Nepali style). Mmmmm. The other people in the restaurant just stared. there was a guy there who had served for Nepal with the allied forces in Afghanistan near where Jesse was stationed. Pretty cool. The whole meal with drinks cost about $10 for all of us. We rode the electric rickshaw (this time the driver brought his wife!) back to the hotel and went to bed.
Today began as usual with roosters crowing and car horns blowing. Will I miss this? No. After I took a shower in the grossest, stinkiest bathroom yet (and that's saying a lot), we ate a toast and eggs breakfast at the hotel. We packed up, those who hadn't showered did so, while the rest of us hung out for a while until eating lunch (butter chicken) before paying and leaving.

This is the face of a happy man with his butter chicken!

"The Roach," our affectionate name for the Suzuki Omni. 

I'm writing now from the front seat of a Suzuki Maruti Omni minivan. When I say minivan, I mean take the weird-looking, first-generation Toyota minivan from the 80s (remember those?) and shrink it down to 3/4 scale. Madison calls it "the roach." This one rides like a bucket of bolts, no a/c, and there is virtually nothing between me and the bumper. I'm looking at a framed picture of a four-armed Hindu god with a mustache riding on an elephant, which is bolted to the dash. All our backpacks are on the roof and the $35 guitar I brought is between my legs. Jesse, Madison, and our guide are sitting on facing seats, knees intertwined in the rear. We're riding to Chandraghadi to fly a Yeti Airlines flight to Kathmandu. We've been joking about "the roach" vans we've been seeing--they're ubiquitous in this part of the world. Madison says he wants one as his car back home. I don't think he's joking. 


Just got off the flight. I'm on a hot bus filled with Nepali-Bhutanese refugees bound for the US. They'll be there before we will. I feel for these people. They are being kicked out of Bhutan by the government there because they are not pure Bhutanese, even though most were born there. They will be sent to America and be lost and alone in a completely crazy culture to them. This makes me see how important our Global at Providence ministry is. We can't imagine what kind of culture shock this is, and it is a great opportunity for the church to be the church of Jesus. I am convicted of the importance to be more intentional about welcoming and befriending internationals in Knoxville. Will you imagine what it would be like if you were in similar circumstances? What if someone--anyone--was nice to you and helped you navigate your way, learned the language, invited you over to eat, etc. God, help me to be a Christian to these people. The foreigner residing among you must be treated as your native-born. Love them as yourself, for you were foreigners in Egypt. I am the LORD your God (Leviticus 19:34)
We got a taxi (another roach!) and the driver is an elderly man who recognized Madison. He's a friendly and talkative former Gurkha soldier who speaks good English. Very nice man. One potential problem: he has Parkinson's or some other muscular disease. This makes him drive spastically and with many jerks and lunges. Another problem: he has cataracts. Combine these factors with the already crazy driving experience here and it is quite a ride! As I write now we are five-wide (not counting motor cycles or pedestrians) on a two-lane road, forcing the oncoming traffic onto the shoulder! We have been inches from a collision many times and no one has stopped. 
Ok, we made it to our hotel in Kathmandu. Went to the only restaurant in town that serves bacon cheese burgers, and washed it down with Mountain Dew. Thank you, Jesus.

Here are some more pictures from our day: 

Not an unusual sight. People all over a "taxi."

Women planting rice.

Another Royal Enfield. They're just cool.

Out of India!

Sorry for the delay on posting. We've had no access to Wi-Fi for three days. I'll try to get pictures up as I can (check back if there are just a few showing).

We left the city of Kalimpong and jeeped about six hours to Jaigaon. It was quite a journey. There were several places where landslides (a frequent occurrence here) had taken whole sections of the road out. This is not like the US, where the authorities will shut the whole interstate down to repair it well. No, the traffic just pushes a way through while the shoddy-looking roadworks goes on. All with 1000-feet drops just a step away. And it's no interstate, let me tell you. It is one or two lanes the whole way. There are times three vehicles will squeeze by going full speed paying no mind to any traffic rules.

There is little regard for signs or people directing traffic. Sometimes (many times) I just close my eyes and pray.
That was three days ago.
 As I write now we are leaving the Indian border city of Jaigaon. It is the nastiest city I've been in since Port Au Prince, Haiti in 2009. Trash everywhere, crazy muffler-less smoke-belching cars and trucks--all blaring horns, beggars begging (especially when they see a white man--let alone three), large animals roaming around crapping on the streets, trash burning, people yelling. It stinks when it rains and you have to walk through the toxic mud and puddles, and it is dusty when it is dry...It's just a beautiful place. I am glad to leave. We did not see another westerner the three days we were there.

 We did have air-conditioning (which exhausted into the bathroom), but that's about it. No Wi-Fi (even though they advertised it), it was musty, dirty, and loud. Whenever the power went off, the room became hot. Jesse and Madison shared a bed and graciously gave me the other (there are advantages to being the old, fat guy). The mattresses we have had in India are two to four inches thick and have no springs. They lay flat on the floor or a wooden platform. There was no toilet paper, the showers are in the bathroom with no curtain, tub, or anything separating it from the rest of the bathroom. The water just falls on the floor.  Oh and the towels...supposed to be white, they are dingy brown with stains on them. They are great for scratching your back due to their roughness. Words don't describe adequately!

The target country is right across the border. We peered through the fence and it seems much cleaner and calmer. Our guide and our driver went to the other side (they are not questioned by border guards because they look like they belong) and confirmed what we saw.

The entrance to our target country can be
seen from our hotel.

They said that the stores are neat and streets are more orderly. They brought us some indigenous food from the country we are targeting. Very interesting and good. The meat was like beef jerky stir fried with peppers. It was very spicy. They make momo different than the Nepalese. They are round pouches containing the same beef jerky. They have a hot sauce that tastes a bit like salsa from a Mexican restaurant, only hotter.
In short, here's how God has worked. We saw a bookstore there near the border that had some ESV Bibles and other Christian literature in it. When we went inside we asked the owner if he was a Christian. He was. He was also from the same tribal village as our guide. Amazing. We told him why we were there and asked if there was anyone working with people from our target country. This man told us he knew someone we should meet. We got in the jeep and he got in with us and led us to a community right on the border, and we walked to a house which was a stone's throw from the border wall (I say a stone's throw, but Madison made a pitiful attempt and hurt his shoulder).

We entered a home that was being worked on and had lots of children running around.  There were three women and one man (not counting the carpenter who was installing a ceiling). After greetings we sat down and it started pouring rain outside. They served us freshly-sliced apples and coffee (if you know me you know that I don't like coffee, and it is never a good idea to eat fruit with peeling if you want to keep from getting sick). We all ate and drank (yes, I choked down most of the coffee). The man's name is Zama. He is a deeply committed Christian who takes in women and children from our target country who are Buddhist and teaches them about Christ, and shows them the love of Christ. He is a wise man who had much good advice for us, again bringing up the idea of teaching if one wants to legitimately get inside the target country to stay and do ministry. He was telling us what he thought would be a good strategy for starting a church: make true disciples who make more disciples. Sound familiar?! After speaking at length with Zama, he called all the children and they sang a song for us about Jesus. He told us of some of their stories. Some had been rescue from slavery and human trafficking. Amazing.
After praying with them we walked about 1/4 mile further down the road where it runs beside the border wall (which is made of stone) and hopped on it for pictures. Nearby some boys were washing clothes at a place in the wall where a creek crosses from the target country. Interesting, it is crystal clear at the border and gets trashed within a few feet of being in India.
We have thus far been protected by God from sickness or other incidents. This is a pretty big deal if you understood how insanely people drive and how dirty things are. Another of our party (unnamed) is having some of the same digestive struggles, but nothing bad. We've been eating pretty much nothing but spicy meat, rice (bot), noodles, lentils (dal), and bread (nam). It's really good, but not very healthy.

Ahhh! We just crossed the border back to Nepal. I'm so happy to be back. We just got a "taxi" from the border (a completely junked car like a Geo Metro that has a wheel about to fall off). Madison had to stop at the border town to buy a knife for his dad.

Madison is just a little bit obsessed with
knives. These are famous knives of Gurkha
warriors, and are made in this town.

Here are some pictures from Jaigaon. They do not do this place justice.

Good Connections

 Today has been good. After a hot shower (yes, hot!), we ate breakfast and actually had enough decent WiFi to call our wives.

We traveled to the home of an American YWAM missionary who has lived here many years and who, reportedly, works with college students from our target country. After finding her house, we found that she was out of the country. Bummer. But then we met Dorjee, a woman from our target country who is a Christian living with her family in Kalimpong. There is no doubt that God orchestrated this meeting. She invited us into her home. After introductions and tea, we told her what our hopes were for planting in her native country. She was guarded and dubious. She told us of the many outsiders who have come to start a mission to her people, who only wanted to take care of themselves. As we told her of our plans to plant a church-planting, disciple-making church, her demeanor began to change.

Madison asked her to tell us her testimony. Amazing. She had a very hard life growing up in the target country. She said that for many years that she wanted to get out of her country and never return. After leaving she came in contact with Christianity and in a medical crisis, told God that if he was real, heal her and get her home. He did...and she forgot God. But God didn't quit. He continued to bring Christians in her life and she was taught the truth and believed. She now has a passion for girls who have left the target country to pursue an education. She and her Indian husband let them live with them where they show them the Christ-centered life. Here's the kicker: she and other Christians from the target country have been praying for God to start a work there. The few churches and Christians that are there are not preaching the true gospel and making disciples. It is a sickly, competitive church in a spiritually dark country.
She said the two biggest problems there are idolatry and adultery. I told her America is not much different. We got lots of great information from her and by the time we left we were all praising God.

After lunch (we ate some great momos), our next meeting was to be with the headmaster of a business college where a lot of people from the target country attend (reminder: we are very near the border). The guy we wanted to meet wasn't there, but again (providentially!) we  met with a guy who's wife is a native of the target country, and who's family owns and runs the college! Madison was asking about finding a job as a professor. Before Madison mentioned the target country, the man did! He said the target country is wide open for jobs, in particular, coaches and teachers--and he has contacts. Long story short, God had prearranged both meetings!
We spent the afternoon in awe of God's grace and sovereignty. There is much more to tell but sensitivities will not allow. Just know that today was very productive.
Here are a few more pictures from the day:

Pretty, but don't touch.  This is the Himalayan version of stinging nettle. Only it is much more vicious than our East Tennessee variety. 

Harley dudes, your India counterparts love the Royal Enfield. These are pretty cool.

We think we're smart with our four-door Jeeps. What about this six-door?! I want one. We've even seen some eight-door Jeeps! Awesome. 

One Step Closer

We awakened Monday morning in Darjeeling to a monsoon. Darjeeling is about the same elevation as Clingman's Dome, so it is cloudy, misty, and cool most of the time. After an omelet, toast, and tea breakfast at the hotel (which I am less enthusiastic about after seeing a rat walk right through the dining room yesterday),

we jeeped three or four hours down the mountain (crazy steep!), through several small towns, across a swollen river, and to the town of Kalimpong. We are closer to our target area. If the last hotel was a dump, this one is like an old English colonial house made into a hotel. It's pretty awesome. Teak floors, stairs, and ceilings; antique

Don't worry dudes, Jesse and I
separated the beds. Just because. 

furniture; plaster walls and fireplaces. It's at least 100 years old! Darla and my kids would LOVE this place. Please understand, we deserve a little break from the sounds, smells, pace, cleanliness (or lack of it), and attitudes of Darjeeling. Some of us were struggling with getting enough sleep and one (unnamed) is having digestive struggles. All of us are tired.

This town has two things we're looking for: some Christians we can collaborate with, and some people from our target country.
Please pray for us.

An uneventful day.

Yes, they have Pizza Hut here. And
yes, we ate there. Very good.

This will be a quick post. We had a monsoon kick up today. That pretty much shut down our plans. Tomorrow we are leaving for another town. Hopefully I'll have better internet access then!